Companion planting helps to increase possible yields in vegetable gardens and the ideas offered here are meant as suggestions. It is basically pairing plants so that one benefits the other, or possible they both benefit. In reality, each location will have different growing results based on soil, sun, wind, the ecology which includes rodents and insects and even what’s in your water. 

 

HOW NEAR IS NEAR?

It depends. Yep, I said it again because it is true. How near is near depends on the context. If you are considering plants that attract pollinators, they don’t need to be right below a fruit tree since the pollinators will forage around the general area looking for more pollen or nectar.  However, if you want a plant to repel insects, you may want to use Yarrow for this.  In that case, you need to have them pretty close, as in right below the fruit tree. 

 

EXAMPLES OF COMPANION PLANTING 

There are charts available that list common companion planting groups but they often leave out the other types methods of locating plants so that they can work together. This is a good time to mention that various forms of mycelium are the ultimate companions in that they create networks where they share information and nutrients that can span huge distances, I am talking miles and miles.

There are different reasons for companion planting as well as techniques. For example, one might consider growing a taller plant in front of a shade loving plant as a way of companion planting since the taller plant can provide the shade for the other plant. 

We can also consider planting a plant that is a bioaccumulator next to say a fruit tree as a way of companion planting since the bioaccumulator is bringing minerals and other nutrients up from deep down and making them available to the fruit tree. 

Locating plants high in nectar so pollinators are attracted to nearby plants is also a form of companion planting. One can also use companion plants as traps to attract insects to them, which helps prevent the insects from going after other plants. Nasturtiums can be used in this way. 

 

YOUR METHOD

How you remember what goes with what depends on you. You might simply start by trying to remember what not to put next to each other, like pole beans and beets which seem to stunt each other’s growth.  Then you might move on to what you want to put next to each other, like pole beans and corn since beans are nitrogen fixers and corn is a heavy feeder. Corn also provides the pole for the pole bean to climb so this is a win-win situation. Whatever your approach, it might reveal a little of your personality. Lol. 

A FEW COMPANION PLANTS 

Here are a few to help you get started

 

Asparagus do well with asters, basil, cilantro, dill, peppers, sage, and thyme. Asparagus repels nematodes which attack tomatoes and tomatoes repel asparagus beetles. Win-win!

 

Bush and Pole Beans– Beans fix nitrogen in the soil and make it accessible to other plants. Brassicas (broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, kale, brussel sprouts), carrots, celery, chard, corn, cucumber, eggplant, peas, potato and strawberries all go well with beans. As mentioned above, pole beans and beets stunt each other’s growth. Avoid planting onions near beans and peas since they can stunt their growth.

 

Calendula– Plant these with tomatoes and asparagus to ward off nematodes and beetles or anywhere else because calendula is awesome.

 

Chives– These are great for garnishes and to add a bit of yum to many dishes and they also improve the flavor of carrots and tomatoes. Also, like many alliums, they help to repel aphids, carrot rust fly, and Japanese beetles. Avoid planting this near beans and peas since chives or other alliums will stunt their growth.

 

Lettuce– Lettuce does well with beets, brassicas, carrots, celery, chervil, cucumbers, dill, garlic, onions, radish, spinach, squash and strawberries.  Ok, they go with just about anything.

 

Potatoes– Beans, celery, corn, garlic, marigolds, onions, and peas do well with potatoes. Don’t plant them with asparagus, carrots, cucumbers, melons, parsnips, squash, sunflowers and turnips.

 

Tomatoes– Asparagus, basil, beans, borage, carrot, celery, chives, collards, cucumber, garlic, lettuce, marigold, mint, nasterium, onion and peppers.  Corn can attract pests to tomatoes so they are not good to add to the “Three Sisters”– corn, squash and beans. Potatoes may attract blight so I don’t plant them together since western Washington has enough of a problem with blight as it is.

 

This is by no means meant to be a fully comprehensive list of companion plants but I do hope it helps you get off to a good start. If you are interested in more things like this, you should check out our homesteading courses where we go deeper into more topics like this. 

Comment below if you have a favorite companion combination not mentioned here. I am positive that other readers would love to hear about it!